The highlights of Hobart
Hobart is less of a small big city, and more of a big small town. As I settled into the middle seat on my flight, the man to my left asked if I was heading home. Nope, just visiting, I replied a bit warily—after months of living in a big, bustling city, I’m quite unaccustomed to having a stranger engage me in conversation. He then waved hello to a business associate, a high school friend, his nephew–all on the same flight–and proceeded to tell me the best place to find bread in Hobart.
After the flight landed at the unassuming Hobart Airport, we bid adieu…and then I spotted him getting coffee the next morning. It was a phenomenon that kept repeating: a couple from the bar on Saturday night passed me on a hike on Sunday morning, the group of men in my Cascade Brewery Tour showed up to watch the footy in same pub as me. With a population of fewer than 250,000, the second oldest capital in Australia is more of a small town than the big cities on the mainland.
It’s quiet, unnervingly quiet. When’s the last time you walked through the city centre at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night, and didn’t spot a soul? Or wandered through the shops on a Sunday, and it was just you and the shop girl? The emptiness is almost as refreshing as the mountain air: there’s no one to bump into, no one to be suspicious of, no one to interrupt you and your thoughts.
It’s a city surrounded by immense natural beauty. Mount Wellington gazes over the town, like an overprotective big brother, shielding it from harsh winds and breaking up the rain clouds. The river divides green rolling hills, dotted with brick homes. The harbour glitters, with stark white sailboats and rolling clouds reflected in the water. There’s not a ton to do, but what’s there is more than worthwhile.
MONA: The Museum of Old and New Art opened less than a year ago, and David Walsh’s incredible collection is now Australia’s largest private museum. It was the reason why I booked a weekend trip to Hobart, and even if I had seen nothing else, it alone would have been worth the trip. Gorgeous riverside location, absolutely phenomenal collection and just a stellar museum experience.
Mount Wellington: On a clear day, you can see half of Tasmania from the peak of Mount Wellington. And in Tasmania, it can flip from a bad day to a clear day in an instant–and vice versa. Clouds were constantly rolling in and then lifting to expose a breathtaking panorama of the landscape below.
Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens: Two random facts about me: tulips are my absolute favorite flower (I hate roses) and I would rather photograph flowers than anything else. I’ve whiled away afternoons in the botanical gardens throughout Sydney and Melbourne, but the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens has stolen my heart. Overlooking the river, the hillside location alone is beautiful–but add in Japanese gardens, a vegetable patch, a cactus house, a duck pond and several patches of blooming tulips setting the background for a wedding, and you’ve got my version of heaven.
Battery Point: One of Hobart’s oldest and most historical locations, it’s full of beautiful old homes made of brick and sandstone whose bright facades contrast with the deep blue of the river in the background. A wonderful neighborhood to wander, and daydream about the peaceful life residents must lead.
Salamanca Markets: The market runs every Saturday morning in Salamanca Place, selling just about everything you need and even more that you don’t. I started my morning with a weisswurst with sauerkraut and spicy German mustard, thanking the stall owner in my rudimentary German. For my breakfast dessert, I splurged on a Sicilian cannoli, the type that you can tell was made only hours ago. I picked up a few things to send home: a tea towel for my grandma, Australian flower seeds for my mom, spiced salt for my dad.
Cascade Brewery: This brewery tour was vastly different than the last one I went on: mostly because I was sober, and it actually had safety regulations. Cascade is the oldest brewery in Australia and it was an incredibly informative tour–and getting to try a few of their lesser-known brews at the end was well worth it. I really enjoyed the Pure and the Stout: will be searching out these new finds at my local bottle shop.
Stay tuned: there will be lots of more detailed posts and postcards of Hobart in the coming weeks. One of my favorite cities in Australia so far!
